Experience the unique and mysterious night-blooming cereus at Tohono Chul Park's annual Bloom Night. The park, located at 7366 N. Paseo del Norte, boasts 340 of these mystical and aromatic plants, the largest collection in the world. When a majority of plants are deemed ready to bloom, the park hosts a special night-usually in June- when visitors can hear the Tohono O'odham legend of the "Queen of the Night" and join guided tours of the park with luminarias to light the way. For more information and the specific date of 2008's Bloom Night, visit www.tohonochulpark.org/bloomwatch or call 742-6455.

Take a step back into the military heyday of the Old Pueblo at the Fort Lowell Museum (in Fort Lowell Park, 2900 N. Craycroft Rd., 885-3832, www.oflna.org). Located in an adobe reproduction of an officer's quarters, this museum features exhibits about life on the Arizona frontier. The outpost, established in 1873, housed several Army regiments, provided protection to settlers, and served as a supply base. The museum now hosts walking tours, lectures, and special events, including Fort Lowell Celebration Day held every Feb. Open Wed.-Sat., 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Admission fee ($3 for adults; $2 for students and seniors; free for children under 12) except on the first Sat. of each month.

Perhaps Tucson's most notable, or should we say most easily noted, landmark is "A" Mountain. Rising above downtown, the peak has witnessed the history and growth of the city. Stjukson, meaning "spring at the foot of the black mountain," was the name of the original Native American settlement in the shelter of the peak. The US Army named the mountain Sentinel Peak for its strategic importance. Since 1916, U of A freshmen have made a yearly tradition of painting the nownamesake letter "A." You can drive to the top of the peak to enjoy a panoramic view of the city Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.- 8 p.m. and Sun. 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Phone the City of Tucson Parks & Recreation Department, 791-5909.

One of the largest collections of historic aircraft in the US is at the Pima Air & Space Museum, 6000 E. Valencia Rd. Its Space Gallery offers a historical look at space travel, while several hangars house memorabilia, airplanes, and exhibits. More than 250 aircraft are on display, inside and out, from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Admission fee. Phone 574-0462. While you're there, stop by the Challenger Learning Center of the Southwest, where you'll find a mission-briefing room, transportation room, mission-control area, and space station. Another sure bet is the partly underground tour at the Titan Missile Museum. You can see the massive 760-ton rollback silo door, visit the launch-control center, and experience a simulated launch. In Sahuarita (take Duval Mine Rd. west, exit 69, off I-19). Phone 625-7736. Take a jaunt into southeastern Arizona for Fort Huachuca's Main, Annex, and US Army Intelligence Museums (520-533-5736). The Main and Annex Museums explore our military past from 1877 to the present, and the Intelligence Museum records Fort Huachuca's place in the history of US Army intelligence. Open weekdays 9 a.m.-4 p.m. and weekends 1-4 p.m. Free admission; donations accepted.

Toy-train aficionados will want to make a stop at the Gadsden-Pacific Division Toy Train Operating Museum (888-2222), with more than 6,000 square feet of displays and detailed scenic tracks. Located at 3975 N. Miller Ave. near N. Romero and W. Roger Rds., it's a little hard to find but well worth the effort. Attractions include videos about train history, old telegraph equipment, and other historic memorabilia including hundreds of toy trains that date back to the 1940s. Call ahead for days and hours of operation. Next stop-fun!

A winding uphill drive west on Speedway Blvd. (which becomes Gates Pass Rd.) brings you, at its apex, to Gates Pass-and panoramic views of Tucson to the east and Saguaro National Park to the west. It's a perfect setting for inspiring sunrises, midday contemplation, and romantic sunsets. (It's a favorite ride for bicyclists, too-be aware!)

Whether it's English teapots, quilts, glass, or period furniture you're after, antiquing in Tucson has its surprises and its rewards. With reasonable prices and a wide variety, Tucson's antique market has everything from collectibles to true antiques. Stop by Morning Star Traders (2020 E. Speedway Blvd., 881-2112), Kaibab Courtyard Shops (2837-41 N. Campbell Ave., 795-6905), Copper Country Antique Mall (5055 E. Speedway Blvd., 326-0167), or Camille's (7029 N. Oracle Rd., 322-9163).

The Amerind Foundation Museum (Amerind is short for American Indian) contains a fine collection of archaeological and ethnographic materials. The Amerind Art Gallery features works by Native American and Anglo-American artists. Visit the museum store and enjoy the scenic picnic area. Located east of Benson, an hour from Tucson, in the spectacular rock formations of Texas Canyon. Take I-10 east to exit 318 (Dragoon Rd.). Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tues.-Sun. Admission fee, free for children 12 and younger. Phone 520-586-3666 or visit www.amerind.org.

Discover some of the prettiest country in the US and the oldest schoolhouse in Arizona. In high desert fewer than 15 miles from Mexico and 55 miles southwest of Tucson, the Arivaca area boasts rich grazing lands, and Arivaca Lake offers great fishing. The town offers a taste of life in the late 1800s, plus quaint shops and galleries. To get there, take I-19 south to Arivaca Rd. and exit at the small town of Amado. Drive 23 miles on rural, winding roads to get to Arivaca. Drive the beautiful 10-mile loop through part of the nearby 118,000-acre Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge (520-823-4251, ext. 116). Find maps, literature, exhibits, and knowledgeable staff at the visitors center. Call for directions.

Wandering through this living museum is like taking an enchanted walk through the desert-with no fear of snakes or critters. There's lots of information, plenty of shade and water, and close-up views of bobcats, prairie dogs, coyotes, hawks, Mexican gray wolves, scorpions, rattlesnakes, roadrunners, quail, and more. Aviaries offer a birder's haven. Trees and cacti are identified for you as well. The internationally famous museum has seasonal fine dining and year-round casual dining. Trained museum docents give live-animal demonstrations and seasonal guided tours. Admission fee. Open daily 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Oct.-Feb. and 7:30 a.m.- 5 p.m. Mar.-Sept. 2021 N. Kinney Rd. Phone 883-2702 or visit www.desertmuseum.org.

Ah, a day at the races-but the only horses here are running under bright, streaking metal hoods at Tucson Raceway Park, 2 miles south of I-10 off the Houghton Rd. exit. This 3/8-mile asphalt oval (near Pima County Fairgrounds) hosts races on Sats., Feb.- Nov. Phone 762-9200 for information. And keep your motor runnin' at Southwestern International Raceway, also near the Pima County Fairgrounds. This dragracing track is open year-round and promises a good time and some fast action. Phone 762- 9700 or visit www.sirace.com.

When you visit this old mining-townturned- artists'-enclave and wander among the steeply tiered hillside houses or delve 1,500 feet underground on the Queen Mine Tour (520- 432-2071) to experience what mining was really like, you'll understand why people speak so fondly of this little town. Where there are artists, there are galleries, and Bisbee has many art galleries exhibiting various genres and mediums. Visit Uptown Tribal (520- 432-7818), which features the works of glass-bead maker Kate Drew-Wilkinson, and Twist (520-432-3046) for contemporary crafts and fine art. Also enjoy perusing the many antique stores for that one-of-a-kind find. Hotels- including the famous Copper Queen Hotel (520-432-2216), Letson Loft Hotel (877-432- 3210), and The Bisbee Grand Hotel (520-432-5900)-and charming B&Bs can make your stay comfortably unforgettable. Dine at such local favorites as the Bisbee Breakfast Club (520-432-5885) and Santiago's Mexican Restaurant (520-432-1910). For a fee, take one of the Lavender Jeep Tours (520- 432-5369) to see more of what Bisbee has to offer. About 90 miles southeast of Tucson on AZ Hwy. 80. Phone the Bisbee Visitor Center, 520-432-3554 or 866-2BISBEE, or visit www.discoverbisbee.com.

Just like their human counterparts, Fido and Fluffy appreciate fun accessories and tasty treats. Paws & Claws Pet Boutique & Grooming Spa (1800 E. Fort Lowell Rd., Ste. 144, 795-7297, www.pawsandclawsonline.com) sells Talavera-inspired dog bowls and chic pet beds and cooks up snickerpoodle and bacon-and-cheese bone biscuits. At La Encantada, Muttropolis (2905 E. Skyline Dr., Ste. 123, 299-MUTT, www.muttropolis.com) carries bejeweled cat collars and clothing, and hosts mutt mingles. Pretty up your pooch with stylish sunglasses, customized T-shirts, dresses, and NFL jerseys at Urban Paws (Park Place, 5870 E. Broadway Blvd., 747-0266, www.urbanpawsonline.com).

What better activity for a bibliophile than browsing through Tucson's fine new and used independent bookstores? The Book Stop (214 N. 4th Ave., 326-6661) has thousands of quality used and out-of-print copies, particularly books on Western Americana, art, literature, poetry, and anthropology. Bookmans Entertainment Exchange (1930 E. Grant Rd., 325-5767; 3733 W. Ina Rd., 579-0303; and 6230 E. Speedway Blvd., 748-9555) offers a veritable warehouse of used books, magazines, video games, movies, software, and compact discs. Antigone Books (411 N. 4th Ave., 792-3715) has the city's most comprehensive collection of works by women writers, and Clues Unlimited (123 S. Eastbourne Ave., 326-8533) is dedicated solely to mysteries.

In 1927, William Boyce Thompson established this arboretum near Superior (11/2 hours north of Tucson) to preserve desert plants and experiment with their potential as usable resources. The arboretum hosts several events and tours throughout the year, including guided bird walks. Phone 520- 689-2811 or visit http://ag. arizona.edu/bta for a schedule of upcoming activities.

Dressing in the Old Pueblo is a cinch-when you have the right accessories. Belt buckles not only are functional but also serve as a Western signature to most outfits. They can be silver, gold, inlaid, engraved, cast, fabricated, or hand-stamped. They can also hold a rainbow of stones, including turquoise, coral, sugalite, and quartz, to name just a few. What's more, buckles fit any setting, from the rodeo to the boardroom. Check out Desert Son Indian Art (299-0818), Morning Star Traders (881-2112), Dark Star Leather (881- 4700), Loop (577-0773 or 884-4335), or Old Presidio Traders in Tubac (398-9333) for one-of-a-kind pieces.

Belgian bittersweet truffles, homemade butter-almond toffee, Western-motif molded chocolates, yuppie sticks, monsoon apples, and pecan buds-all your refined-sugar fantasies can come true in Tucson's candy stores. The Chocolate Depot (in Trail Dust Town, 6541 E. Tanque Verde Rd., 886-9203) makes all of its chocolates in a kitchen above the shop and touts old-time favorites such as fudge, peanut brittle, and chocolate turtles. Chocolate Iguana (500 N. 4th Ave., 798-1211) has walls lined with jars of candy, reminiscent of an old-time candy store, plus a full cafe menu. Don't miss Choc-Alot Gourmet Chocolatier (in El Mercado Shoppes, 6350 E. Broadway Blvd., 748-2462), famous for its handmade chocolate novelty treats and gift baskets.

Two historic theaters reign as the grandes dames of Tucson's city center. The refurbished Fox Tucson Theatre (17 W. Congress St., 624-1515 or 547-3040, www.foxtucsontheatre.org) earned its ranking as a National Historic Landmark for its unique decor and acoustics, featuring elements reminiscent of its prime in the 1930s and 40s. It hosts concerts, film festivals, theater performances, silent movies, children's events, and more. Built in 1920, The Rialto Theatre (318 E. Congress St., 740-1000, www.rialtotheatre.com) once welcomed such stars as Clara Bow, Ginger Rogers, and Dolores del Rio, as well as touring vaudeville and musical acts. Today it hosts various live musical acts year-round.

You can bet Tucson has its share of casinos. Desert Diamond Casino & Hotel, owned and operated by the Tohono O'odham Nation (7350 S. Nogales Hwy., 294-7777, www.desertdiamondcasino.com), deals up live blackjack, slots, bingo, and poker, among other games. Or check out its 2nd area location in Sahuarita at I-19 and Pima Mine Rd. (294-7777). Also, Casino of the Sun, owned and operated by the Pascua Yaqui Nation (7406 S. Camino de Oeste, with a 2nd location, Casino del Sol, at 5655 W. Valencia Rd., 800-344-9435, www.casinodelsol.com), brings a little piece of Vegas to the Old Pueblo. Both locations offer live blackjack, video poker, slot machines, bingo, and more. If you're not having any luck with the one-armed bandit, grab something to eat-from Mexican food to prime rib-or catch a show; most casinos offer big-name entertainment. You must be 21 or older to enter any of the casinos.

Just 12 miles north of Tucson on Oracle Rd. (AZ Hwy. 77), this park offers the best views of the canyons, cliffs, domes, and spires on the north side of the Santa Catalina Mountains. White-tailed deer abound. Walk the Romero Ruin Interpretive Trail to the archaeological site of an ancient Hohokam village that was later a Spanish hacienda. Picnicking, camping, biking, and hiking are available. A day pass is $3 per vehicle. Phone 628-5798.

Cave explorers of all ages and abilities can have a field day in Arizona. Kartchner Caverns State Park, near Benson, has been described as an underground nature preserve. Providing spectacular sights in a footballfield- sized room, this living cave also features a 51.5-foottall stone column dubbed "Kubla Khan." Reservations are recommended (520-586-CAVE, www.azstateparks.com). Colossal Cave Mountain Park, 17 miles east of Tucson on Old Spanish Trail (647-7275), is a cave that has earned its name-it's one of the largest "dry," or dormant, caves in the country. In the 1880s, outlaws sought refuge in the passageways and secret exits, and rumor has it there is hidden treasure within. Coronado Cave, near the Mexican border and part of Coronado National Memorial (520-366-5515), is a more primitive cave, but it's worth the effort to enjoy the cool temperature and calcite formations. Obtain a free permit at the visitors center. At least 2 flashlights per person are required for exploring the cave. All caves except Coronado Cave charge admission fees.

Ballroom dances, sizzling salsa, or elegant waltzes get your toes tapping? Get your fill of ballroom bliss right here in Tucson. The Arizona Ballroom Company (5536 E. Grant Rd., 290-2990) hosts dance lessons and community dances for hoofers of all levels of experience. Or check out Shall We Dance (4101 E. Grant Rd., 327- 7895, and 2850 W. Ina Rd., 229-3202), which offers instruction in West and East Coast swing and Argentine tango, as well as classics such as mambo, fox-trot, cha-cha, and merengue. American Dance's (6336 N. Oracle Rd., Ste. 318, 219-9556) introductory course gives dancers the opportunity to try a little of everything, from ballroom and Latin to swing and country.

Escape to the silence and beauty of the Benedictine Holy Trinity Monastery, 58 miles southeast of Tucson in St. David. Individual and group accommodations offer a chance for spiritual growth and healing. There's also an RV park. Phone 520-720-4016 for reservations. The suggested donation of $40 per person per night includes three meals. The Santa Rita Abbey near Sonoita also offers retreats, with simple food provided, and guests may attend the public religious services. For overnight retreats, phone 520- 455-5595 for reservations and suggested donations. Situated on 120 acres bordering Saguaro National Park West is the Redemptorist Renewal Center. Guests have access to desert trails and Hohokam petroglyphs on the property, and a variety of retreats and programs are available. Fees and schedules vary. Phone 520-744-3400 or visit www.desertrenewal.org for more info.

Looking to add a little drama or mystery to your dinner out? Check out one of these Tucson theaters that specialize in keeping their audiences entertained and well fed. Don't miss The Gaslight Theatre's campy, original melodramas. Shows include Beach Blanket Be Bop June 5-Aug. 23 and Frankenstein Lives Aug. 28-Nov. 1. Pizza and ice cream, among other treats, are sold at the theater. Catch a show at 7010 E. Broadway Blvd.; reservations and advance payment are required. Phone 886-9428 or visit www.thegaslighttheatre.com. Mystery Mansion Dinner Theatre (624-0172, www.mysterymansion.com) offers a 3-course dinner and the interactive Murder at Magic Manor on Fri. and Sat. nights. Reservations required. Call ahead for showtimes and directions.

Tired of TV? For stimulating entertainment, try the Tucson Children's Museum. You'll find one fine exhibit after another in the historic library building, 200 S. 6th Ave. The museum focuses on participatory exhibits and displays geared to learning and exploration. Check out Dinosaur World, the Fire Station, Art Studio, and Ocean Discovery Center. There's also a museum store filled with toys that are educational as well as fun. Visit www.tucsonchildrens museum.org or phone 792-9985.

Many works by one of Tucson's most famous artists, Ettore "Ted" DeGrazia, are housed in DeGrazia Gallery in the Sun, a group of low-slung adobes set amid the modern structures of the Swan and Sunrise area. Built by the artist with the help of close friends, the compound (constructed of materials from the surrounding desert) at one time served as his home and studio. The permanent collection includes works by DeGrazia on subjects such as Padre Kino, Cabeza de Vaca, and Tohono O'odham legends. Rotating exhibits and a gift shop round out the mix. The 10-acre site, which was recently added to the National Register of Historic Places, is located at 6300 N. Swan Rd. Phone 299-9191 or visit www.degrazia.org.

Tough women dominate at the Tucson Roller Derby as teams like the Furious Truckstop Waitresses fiercely take on the Copper Queens in this full-contact sport. Matches are held at Bladeworld (1065 W. Grant Rd.) on Sat. evenings Mar.-Sept. But don't miss a host of other events featuring one of the best leagues in the nation, including monthly charity flattrack bouts and the Wheelie awards. Check out www.tucsonrollerderby.com or call 390- 1454 for more information and a schedule of events.

Find an urban oasis near you! Tucson Botanical Gardens (2150 N. Alvernon Way, 326- 9686, www.tucsonbotanical.org) has demonstration gardens; a seasonal cafe; tours; lectures; classes; a gift shop; and exhibits of arid, semitropical, and tropical plants-all displayed in intimate garden settings around an adobe home. Tohono Chul Park (7366 N. Paseo del Norte, 742-6455, www.tohonochulpark.org)-a 49-acre park-was created to promote the conservation of arid regions. It includes nature trails, art and cultural exhibits, a greenhouse, a children's garden, a tearoom, and gift shops.

At the T-Rex Museum, fossils of all descriptions-sharks' teeth, fish, prehistoric sea creatures, dinosaur footprints, and even "dino doo"-greet visitors, who journey a few million years back into the Age of Dinosaurs. Polished petrified wood, sparkling crystals, and full-size dinosaur sculptures complement a collection of modern-day artifacts. Special dinosaur movies as well as a kids' activity area round out the fun. Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tues.-Sat., and noon-4 p.m. on Sun. Activity fees start at $5. 3835 N. Oracle Rd. Phone 888-0746 or see www.trexmuseum.org.

Tucked away in Saguaro National Park West lies the Red Hills Visitor Center, which features displays covering the legends and cultural history of the region. Start in the center's theater, where you can experience Sonoran Desert living through the eyes and hearts of the Tohono O'odham as they recite the ancient folklore of their ancestors, or explore the hands-on photography displays throughout the center. Take a stroll through the cactus garden, and make sure to check out the bookshop's extensive collection of reading about the region. The Red Hills Visitor Center is located about 18 miles west of Tucson. Admission fee. Phone 733-5158.

The University of Arizona Biosphere 2 currently serves as a laboratory for controlled scientific studies that monitor global environmental change. This 3.1-acre glassand- steel complex-originally designed as a prototype for space colonization-contains a million-gallon ocean and living coral reef, rain forest, savannah, marsh, and desert. Visitors can explore various parts of the attraction and go on an "under the glass" tour of Biosphere 2 itself. The facility also offers a visitors center that includes a movie on Bio2, a snack bar, and gift shops. Visit from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; tours offered daily. On AZ Hwy. 77 at mile marker 96.5, about 20 minutes north of Tucson. Admission for adults is $20; $18 for seniors, military, and AAA members; $13 for kids ages 6-12; ages 5 and under free. Phone 838-6200 or visit www.b2science.org.

If expanding your culinary expertise is on your to-do list, Cuisine Classique (1060 W. Magee Rd., 797-1677) offers themebased courses, including some specifically designed for instructing the kiddies in the kitchen. If you simply need to stock up on cool, state-of-theart cookware and gourmet specialty foods, head south about 45 minutes to Tumacookery (2221 E. Frontage Rd., Ste. N-102, 398- 9497) in Tubac. In this artistic hamlet, you'll also find the Tubac Culinary School (Plaza de Anza, 398-8501), which holds classes on traditional breakfast favorites, hors d'oeuvres, international cuisine, and more. The neighboring gourmet market provides all the necessary ingredients to prepare a fine feast.

Pack up the kids and head out the door, because Arizona is perfect for enjoying the great American pastimes of miniature golf, bumper boats, batting cages, go-carts, and video arcades. Visit Funtasticks Family Fun Park at 221 E. Wetmore Rd. (888-4653) or Golf N' Stuff at 6503 E. Tanque Verde Rd. (885-3569).

If you're a stickler for fresh foods, fresh air, and friendly faces, a farmers market may be just the place for you. The Tucson Farmers Market at St. Philip's Plaza, 4380 N. Campbell Ave., offers an open-air marketplace for culinary treats every Sun. 8 a.m.-noon. Phone 918-9811. The Santa Cruz River Farmers' Market takes place on Thurs. 4-7 p.m. at the northeast corner of Speedway and Riverview Blvds. Phone 622-0525. Don't miss the Plaza Palomino Saturday Morning Market, located in the Plaza Palomino shopping center on the southeast corner of Swan and Fort Lowell Rds., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. every Sat. Phone 320-6344. Rincon Valley Farmers & Artisans Market, located at 12500 E. Old Spanish Trail, offers fresh vegetables, plants, herbs, crafts, and more every Sat. 9 a.m.- 2 p.m. Visit www.rvfm.org or phone 591-2276. Oro Valley Farmers Market, at 11000 N. La Canada Dr., runs every Sat. morning and features fresh meat and produce, baked goods, teas and coffees, and gourmet soups and sauces. Call 918-9811. South of Tucson, the Tubac Farmers' Market is in full swing every Thurs. 10 a.m.- 2 p.m. at Plaza de Anza. Call 398-1010 for directions and more information. Or visit the Bisbee Farmers Market, open every Sat. from 8 a.m. to noon at Vista Park in the Warren area. Call 520-227-5060.

Wooly buggers, zug bugs, scuds, midges, pupae, and other creatures become your friends and necessary companions when you attend a fly-fishing school or outing led by one of Arizona's expert guides. Despite the prevalence of desert in the state, there are enough fishing holes to keep any avid angler busy and happy. Spend a few days in the Mogollon Rim area of Central Arizona or the White Mountains, where you might hook the rare Apache trout. Or try your hand at bass fishing in select Southern Arizona lakes. Phone Tight Lines Flyfishing at 322-9444, Dry Creek Outfitters at 326- 7847, or Arizona Flyfishing in Tempe at 480-730-6808. All offer equipment and classes.

An initiation to the Southwest, this puffy delight can be found smothered in honey or savory toppings Sats. and Suns. at the Tohono O'odham food stands near Mission San Xavier del Bac and at seasonal events around town.

Tucson has been called a "mini-mecca" for the arts, and many nationally and internationally known artists call it home. Works in the visual arts can be found all over town, from downtown and midtown to the eastside and Foothills areas. Gallery Row at El Cortijo (at the northeast corner of Campbell Ave. and Skyline Dr.) and Plaza Colonial (at the southwest corner of Campbell Ave. and Skyline Dr.) hold ArtWalks on the 2nd Thurs. of each month, with complimentary jazz, food, and wine. For more information on galleries and museums throughout Tucson and Southern Arizona, refer to the "Now Showing" and "Gallery Guide" sections in this magazine.

In return for prayers answered during World War I, Tucsonan Felix Lucero began work on sculptures depicting biblical scenes. The result: this lovely park at 602 W. Congress St. on the west bank of the Santa Cruz River. Now it's city maintained and open from dawn to dusk. You'll find shade trees and, across Congress St., Tucson's official "largest eucalyptus tree." For more information, phone the City of Tucson Parks & Recreation Department, 791-4873.

The lushly cool sycamore- and walnut-shaded confluence of Bonita Creek and the Gila River is known as the Gila Box Riparian National Conservation Area. Renowned for its diversity of wildlife, the 23,000-acre preserve affords birders a prime location to get a look at zone-tailed and black hawks, ospreys, peregrine falcons, and various other native raptors. Rafting, canoeing, hiking, backpacking, and horseback riding are all popular activities. Phone the Safford Field Office of the Bureau of Land Management at 928-348-4400.

Drive about 6 hours through some of the nation's most memorable countryside, and you're at one of the 7 natural wonders of the world-where you can hike, ride, fly, camp, float, and photograph a truly aweinspiring sight. Located 80 miles south of the Grand Canyon, the city of Flagstaff offers quality restaurants and good accommodations for the night. Phone the Flagstaff Visitors Center at 800-842-7293 or visit www.flagstaffarizona.org.

Some of Tucson's music stores are like funky museums, where you can buy that vintage Fender guitar you've always wanted. Find new and used guitars, keyboards, drums, and more at Chicago Music Store (130 E. Congress St., 622- 3341, and 7030 E. Broadway Blvd., Ste. 100, 886-1516), family owned for more than 85 years. Rainbow Guitars, with hundreds of guitars on display, is another local favorite (2550 N. Campbell Ave., 325- 3376). There's also the Folk Shop (2525 N. Campbell Ave., 881-7147), which features unusual instruments from around the world.

Just northeast of the Main Gate of the U of A campus, the Arizona State Museum exhibits pottery, artifacts, and contemporary objects while presenting important facts about the ways of life, including trading and commerce, of prehistoric and modern Native Americans. Don't miss the museum's permanent exhibit Paths of Life: American Indians of the Southwest. Phone 621-6302. The nearby Arizona Historical Society, established when Arizona was a territory, features period rooms, the Mining Hall mine-shaft replica, photo exhibits, self-guided tours, and hands-on exhibits for all ages. At 949 E. 2nd St. Phone 628-5774. Free for kids 11 and younger. The Bisbee Mining & Historical Museum-a Smithsonian affiliate-presents Digging In, a permanent interactive exhibit on the underground and open-pit copper mining that began in the early 1880s. Open year-round; $7.50 for adults, $6.50 for seniors, and $3 for children younger than 16. At 5 Copper Queen Plaza. Phone 520-432-7071.

This natural history museum features more than 400 displays of mammals, birds, and insects from around the world. Interactive computer programs and hands-on exhibits provide educational entertainment. View hourly nature films in the Wildlife Theater and enjoy lunch at the Oasis Grille. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Located at 4800 W. Gates Pass Rd. (the west end of Speedway Blvd.), 5 miles west of I-10. Visit www.thewildlifemuseum.org or call 617-1439.

Take a step back in time with a trolley ride between University Blvd.'s Main Gate Square and the eclectic shopping district along Fourth Avenue-for just $1 a ride Fri. and Sat. and 25 cents on Sun. At the allvolunteer "operating transit museum," the staff participate in fundraising efforts, historical research, and restoration of historic trolleys and buses; they even serve as conductors on the streetcars. Call 792-1802 or visit www.oldpueblotrolley.org for a route map and schedule, and for historical and volunteer information.

Unwind after a long day with an exhilarating night of dancing, drinks, and music at some of Tucson's hippest nightclubs. Check out ICE Nightlife (721-7074) every Fri. for favorites from the 70s, 80s, and 90s, plus top-40 hits and hip-hop. Level Lounge (615-3835) also offers a variety of exciting theme nights and features live DJs every Wed.-Sat. Mix and mingle on the dance floor or rent your own lounge at Pearl (888-8084) for the ultimate A-list experience. Enjoy gambling and great food, plus live music, guest DJs, and dancing at Desert Diamond Casino & Hotel's nightclub, Monsoon (294-7777). Some places enforce a dress code, so call ahead for details.

Tucson summers demand the occasional relief of a frozen confection. Don't be satisfied with the traditional. Sample sherbets, gelato, snow cones, frozen yogurts, and very mod mixes in your milk shakes. Try the offerings at many malls, shops, and restaurants in the area, and don't forget the shaved-ice cones in dozens of flavors from roadside vendors in Tucson's barrios. Try Austin's East (6129 E. Broadway Blvd.), a 50s-era diner that makes its own ice cream on the premises and is known for delicious milk shakes. Other local favorites include Yogurt Delight (1101 N. Wilmot Rd.), Frost, A Gelato Shoppe (7131 N. Oracle Rd. and 7301 E. Tanque Verde Rd.), and Santa Barbara Ice Creamery (1058 N. Campbell Ave.).

Walk in the footsteps of a miner by touring a simulated mine, or meander through the many exhibits at Arizona's mining and mineral museums. The University of Arizona Mineral Museum (on the lower level of Flandrau: The University of Arizona Science Center, 621-4227) houses one of the largest mineral collections in Southern Arizona, with approximately 2,200 minerals, gemstones, and meteorites on display from its permanent collection of more than 27,000. The Arizona Historical Society (628- 5774) features a mine-shaft replica, and the Arizona- Sonora Desert Museum's Earth Sciences Center (883- 1380) has an extensive trove of minerals and exhibits. Travel south to Sahuarita and tour the Asarco Mineral Discovery Center (625-7513). A little farther southeast is The Bisbee Mining & Historical Museum (520-432- 7071), with stunning mineral collections from prominent pioneer families dating back to the turn of the last century. Also in Bisbee, you can check out the Lavender Pit Mine or take an underground tour with Queen Mine Tours (520-432-2071). If that's not enough, you can explore the enormous collection of minerals at the Arizona Mining and Mineral Museum (602-771-1611) in Phoenix.

Saddle up and ride through the land that inspires cowboys to write poetry. Guests of White Stallion Ranch (297-0252) enjoy Westernstyle horseback rides with experienced wranglers; or travel to Triangle T Guest Ranch (866-586-7533), 60 miles east of Tucson to the foothills in the Dragoon Mountains, to experience sunrise and sunset rides. Book a room in one of the ranch's Western-themed casitas. If you already have a place to stay and just want to go on a trail ride, check out Arizona Horseback Experience (520-455-5696) for an all-day or multiple-day trail ride, Pusch Ridge Stables (825-1664), Tanque Verde Ranch (296-6275), or Walking Winds Stables at the Hilton Tucson El Conquistador Golf & Tennis Resort (742- 4422) and Hacienda del Sol Stables (615-9265), which provide trail rides for guests as well.

The Tucson Museum of Art operates this period home as a local model for the Arts and Crafts movement of the early 20th century. The house, designed in 1906 by architect David Holmes, was the home of Johnston Knox Corbett, a lumber and hardware dealer who also served as Tucson's postmaster for 23 years and was mayor from 1914 to 1917. Members of the Corbett family occupied the house for 56 years, until 1963. The Corbett House is open during regular museum hours: Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.- 4 p.m., Sun. noon-4 p.m. Phone 624-2333.

Get off the highway and take a look at what you've been speeding past. Off-road Jeep tours offer fascinating glimpses into the natural history of this exotic desert region. Experienced drivers can fill you in on all the details about the flora and fauna. A visit to historic and prehistoric sites may include a close-up look at Native American petroglyphs or a trip to a ghost town. Some companies will even tailor trips for your group. Phone Sunshine Jeep Tours (742-1943, www.sunshinejeeptours.com) or Trail Dust Adventures Inc. (747- 0323, www.traildustadventures.com).

Prepare for side-splitting entertainment at Laffs Comedy Cafe. At 2900 E. Broadway Blvd., Ste. 154, Laffs is open Thurs.-Sat. and also has a game room with pool tables and arcade games. Phone 32-FUNNY or visit www.laffscomedyclub.com.

If you're wondering where the action is, try a little moonlight, a little music-and the crack of the pins. Golden Pin Lanes (888-4272) sponsors Kosmic Bowling every Fri. and Sat. night. Bedroxx (744-ROLL) features Club Bedroxx on Fri. and Sat. with top-40 music, videos, and a live DJ. Or try Cyberbowl-a discolike atmosphere complete with lights, fog, and music-at Lucky Strike Bowl (327-4926), Cactus Bowl (327-6561), Tucson Bowl (747-1363), Santa Cruz Lanes (622-2186), or Fiesta Lanes (887-2695). Event nights vary according to location. Call for details.

Searching for some U of A gear-a hat, T-shirt, or maybe a pair of Wildcat flip-flops? Find collegiate gear and much more at this bustling hub of university students, faculty, visitors, early risers, and night owls who gather at the many coffee shops, restaurants, and pubs after a day of shopping (or studying). Located within walking distance of the museums, sports facilities, and attractions on campus, Main Gate Square features everything from banking, travel, tanning beds, and bicycles to salons, chic clothing, specialty stores, and even a hotel.

Tucson has been called "the lightning capital of the US." A favorite pastime with Tucsonans, old and new, is viewing the show in the sky that accompanies each monsoon season. And what a show it is: thunderheads building over distant mountain peaks as evening descends, then bolts, streaks, and tracings of white light playing across the sky. There's nothing like it, but be sure to take appropriate precautions.

Ready to boogie to the blues, honkytonk, two-step, twist and shout, ride the soul train, or jazz things up? Here's a small sampling of where you'll find live music-from rock to reggae, blues to swing-around town: Lookout Bar and Grille in the Westward Look Resort (297-1151), Plush (798- 1298), The French Quarter (318-4767), Frog & Firkin (623-7507), Bluefin Seafood Bistro (531-8500), and Club Congress (622-8848).

About 40 miles south of Tucson, the Santa Rita Mountains are home to Madera Canyon, one of the prettiest spots around. There are trails for hikers, tables for picnickers, a clear stream, and a variety of trees for all. In the cooler months, you should take a coat or a jacket. Take I-19 south of Tucson to the clearly marked turnoff near Continental, just south of Green Valley.

Tequila, triple sec, and lime juice-what better way to end a hot summer day than with an ice-cold margarita? Served on the rocks or frozen, with or without salt, this tangy sensation is just what you need to revive your mind, body, and spirit after a day in the desert. Many restaurants and bars serve variations on the original, such as strawberry, prickly pear, and blue margaritas (substituting blue Curacao for triple sec). They're the perfect accompaniment to the practically ubiquitous chips and salsa served in the many Mexican-food restaurants here in town. ¡Disfrúte! (Enjoy!)

Mariachi is a music born of many influences, including modern radio. The instruments, clothes, and voices are all part of a studied tradition. Tucson hosts an international mariachi conference every Apr., but mariachis play year-round at various Mexican restaurants, including La Fuente (Wed.-Sun., 1749 N. Oracle Rd., 623-8659), La Parrilla Suiza (Fri. and Sat. nights, 2720 N. Oracle Rd., 624-4300; 4250 W. Ina Rd., 572-7200), El Mezon del Cobre (Fri. and Sat. nights, 2960 N. 1st Ave., 791-0977), and El Mariachi (Fri. and Sat., 106 W. Drachman St., 903-0489).

Carne asada, salsa, tortillas, pollo asado-the names alone tempt your palate. The tastes are as good as the names, some with spicy, tearsto- your-eyes flavor. There are literally dozens of places to find authentic Mexican food, including Sonoran dishes unique to Tucson. Check our "Desert Dining Guide" for a good selection.

At Cinema La Placita, located in downtown Tucson, view American classics such as Breakfast at Tiffany's and Some Like It Hot beneath starry skies. With free admission and popcorn, there's no excuse to miss Audrey Hepburn and other stars projected on the big screen outdoors. Bring a blanket for the lawn-although plastic chairs are provided-and your favorite movie munchies to 110 S. Church Ave. every Thurs. at 7:30 p.m. May-Oct. Call 326-5282 or visit www.cinemala placita.com for upcoming shows.

The permanent collection of The University of Arizona Museum of Art includes Spanish medieval and Renaissance art, as well as 19th-century American, contemporary, and modernist works. It's on the U of A campus just south of Speedway Blvd. and east of Park Ave. near the pedestrian underpass. Phone 621-7567. Since the completion of a $2.7-million renovation, the Tucson Museum of Art and Historic Block (downtown at the corner of N. Main Ave. and Alameda St.) has been able to display more of its fine collection and attract larger traveling exhibits. The museum renovated the historic Hiram Stevens House into the Palice Pavilion for its permanent collection of pre-Columbian, Spanish Colonial, and Latin American folk art. You can also visit the John K. Goodman Pavilion of Western Art, Corbett House (a local model for the Arts and Crafts movement of the early 20th century), and La Casa Cordova, with its early- to mid-19th-century period rooms. Phone 624-2333. And don't miss Cafe à la C'Art (628-8533) for a little something to snack on.

Called "the White Dove of the Desert," the San Xavier del Bac mission was founded by Father Eusebio Francisco Kino in the late 1600s. The church, built by the Franciscans in the 1700s, is one of the finest examples of Spanish mission architecture in the US. The church also houses a museum devoted to the native people of Wa:k, mission architecture, and numerous religious artifacts. Visitors can enjoy the results of a major restoration of the mission, portions of it by experts who restored the Sistine Chapel. Take I-19 to exit 92, then watch for signs once you get onto the Tohono O'odham reservation. Phone 294-2624 or see www.sanxaviermission.org for more information and for a mass schedule.

Here's a great way to get a quick orientation to the city-contact one of Tucson's tour companies. A typical day tour will visit "A" Mountain, the downtown historic district, the U of A campus, Sabino Canyon, DeGrazia Gallery in the Sun, Old Town Artisans, and Mission San Xavier del Bac. Phone Gray Line Tours (622-8811, www.graylinearizona.com) to see the sights of Tucson and Southern Arizona. For a unique perspective, hop on a Segway for 2-hour guided tours along the Presidio Trail or around the university area. Call Segway of Tucson at 749-5325 or see www.tucsonsegway.com.

Just north of colorful Sedona, this canyon's meandering stream wanders for miles around cottonwood, birch, and aspen trees, in and out of campgrounds, rushing its way in a whitewater flurry over popular Slide Rock, trickling left and right of the 2-lane road that parallels it-always a lovely drive. Campgrounds get jammed on weekends; spaces are filled on a first-come, firstserved basis (except for 3 that can be reserved). For more information, phone the Red Rock Ranger Station at 928-282-4119.

In the historic Presidio district, Old Town Artisans (201 N. Court Ave., 623- 6024) is a haven for those seeking beautiful arts & crafts or a relaxing lunch in a wonderful courtyard at La Cocina Restaurant & Cantina (622-0351). The historic adobe structure is filled with items ranging from prickly-pear-pad spoon rests and handmade gargoyles to dried-flower arrangements, Western wear, and handcrafted jewelry and pottery. Nearby, you'll find historic homes, El Charro Cafe (622-1922)- the oldest family-owned Mexican restaurant in the nation-and more. It's a great area for shopping and sightseeing.

Sushi-a Japanese treasure- has found fans in Tucson and all around the world. If you're feeling adventurous, take a taste of sea urchin, octopus, or eel. A few tips to remember while enjoying this trendy treat: It's customary to eat an entire piece in one bite. If mixing a bit of wasabi into the soy sauce, try to avoid making wasabi soup. Finally, when dipping the piece of sushi in the sauce, dip the fish instead of the rice side. Test your sushi-eating skills at Ra Sushi Bar and Restaurant (2905 E. Skyline Dr. #289, 615- 3970), Sakura Teppan Steak & Seafood (6534 E. Tanque Verde Rd., 298-7777), Ginza Sushi (5425 N. Kolb Rd. #115, 529-8877), or Sushi Garden (15 N. Alvernon Way, 326-4700, and at the Foothills Mall, 7401 N. La Cholla Blvd., Ste. 312, 87-SUSHI).

Blue skies, a breeze coming off the water, and a bobber coaxing you to sleep-find this paradise at Patagonia Lake State Park. Rent a canoe or a paddleboat, swim, sunbathe, camp, fish, or hike through the riparian delights of the world's oldest and largest Fremont cottonwoods on the Sonoita Creek trail, or look for the more than 270 species of birds in The Nature Conservancy's Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve (520-394-2400). Patagonia offers shopping, dining, galleries, and more. On your way there or back, you'll want to stop in Sonoita, a tiny town in the midst of gorgeous countryside. The excellent restaurants belie its small size. From Tucson, take I-10 east to AZ Hwy. 83. Sonoita is at the junction of Hwys. 83 and 82- take AZ Hwy. 82 west to Patagonia. The lake is 7 miles southwest of Patagonia. Phone the Patagonia Lake State Park at 520-287-6965.

Established in 1975, the U of A Center for Creative Photography is one of the finest institutions of its kind. Patrons may request appointments to view photos from the permanent collection, including works from the archives of Ansel Adams, Edward Weston, and others. Located just east of the westernmost U of A pedestrian underpass (park in the garage at Park Ave. and Speedway Blvd.). For current exhibitions, phone 621-7968 or visit www.creativephotography.org.

Hold on to summer a little bit longer by taking in the big-league action of the Arizona Diamondbacks at Chase Field in Phoenix. The 2007 team advanced to the National League Championship Series versus the Colorado Rockies. Our major league team keeps the ball in the air well into Sept. Phone 602-514-8400, or visit www.dbacks.com for schedule and ticket information.

If you see a young giraffe learning to run across an open field; a polar bear taking a plunge; or ostriches, cranes, and other birds sharing an African grassland with antelope, you must be at Reid Park Zoo. The zoo has carefully created natural habitats and multispecies exhibits-a pleasant setting for animals and visitors alike. The South American exhibit has jaguars, bears, and capybaras. Don't miss the rhinos, elephants, tigers, and lions, too. In Reid Park off 22nd St., between Alvernon Way and Country Club Rd. Open 7 days a week from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission fee. Phone 791-3204 or visit www.tucsonzoo.org.

In the fast-paced world we live in, it makes sense that yoga has become increasingly popular as a way to unify mind and body. If you're ready to unwind and clarify your life, check out the Providence Institute (323- 0203), which offers classes at varying times throughout the day. Yoga Oasis (322-6142), Yoga Connection (323- 1222), Tucson Yoga (877- TUC-YOGA), and Yoga Flow (321-9642) are also open to the public, offer regular classes, and are beginner-friendly.

For some people, rafting means the thrill of whitewater rapids. For others, it means drifting down secluded canyons. Arizona's waters offer both types of experiences. Outfitters offer various packages, ranging from a few hours to many days. Phone Arizona River Runners (800-477-7238), Cimarron River Company (480-994-1199), Far Flung Outdoor Center (800-839- 7238), Wilderness River Adventures (800-992-8022), or Mild to Wild Rafting (800-567-6745).

With shiny fangs and a winding tail, a huge diamondback rattlesnake serves as a bicycle and pedestrian bridge crossing Broadway Blvd. at the Barraza-Aviation Parkway, just east of downtown Tucson. This eye-catching structure, designed by artist Simon Donovan, won an award as one of the nation's best road projects from the Federal Highway Administration. A hollow stomach serves as the covered bridge-another Tucson success in combining public art with city improvement projects.

Some great advantages to the summer heat do exist, not the least of which are the reduced rates offered at resorts and hotels. A weekend retreat gives you the same first-class service, the cool pool, and the air-conditioned comfort and luxury that others pay full price for in the winter. Check with the Metropolitan Tucson Convention & Visitors Bureau (624-1817) or daily newspapers for specifics.

Enjoy the place where mammoths roamed, ancient Hohokam people constructed irrigation dams, pony soldiers discovered swimming holes, and the Civilian Conservation Corps built bridges and cut hiking trails. Daily trams offer a narrated tour of the area. When there's water in the creek, a round-trip trail from the lower portion takes you up to cool, clear pools. Swim, laze, or play lizard on the rocks. If exploring on your own, obey all posted signs. Be sure to stop by the center to learn more about the canyon. Located on N. Sabino Canyon Rd. (749-2861, www.sabinocanyon.com). Fees for parking and the tram. Phone ahead for tram schedules and trail restrictions.

Though few and far between, Arizona's lakes are warm-weather retreats, especially for boating of any kind. Go sailing at Roosevelt Lake, at Canyon or Apache Lake near Phoenix, or try speedboating at Patagonia Lake State Park near Nogales. Naturally, the weekends are the most popular times, so try to go during the week to avoid the crowds.

Everyone knows an ice-cold beer tastes best in the summer, and those from south of the border offer a surprising range of flavor, body, and the intangible luxury of taking you and your taste buds on a Mexican vacation. Here are a few we recommend: Bohemia, Negra Modelo, Tecate, Dos Equis Lager, Dos Equis Amber, Pacífico, and the ever-popular Corona. These will get you started in the right direction, but remember, don't try too many in one sitting-especially if you're sitting in the sun or planning on sitting in the driver's seat.

Wineries, fine dining, and charming B&Bs are hallmarks of the Sonoita/Elgin experience. The picturesque countryside has provided the backdrop for several Hollywood movies, including Oklahoma! and Red River. Numerous restaurants, such as La Vista de Sonoita (520-455-5282) and The Steak Out Restaurant & Saloon (520-455-5205), draw folks from around the world. Don't miss the colorful shops of Many Horses Trading Company (520-455- 5545), Buffalo Gals of Sonoita (520-455-5523), and Nizhoni Ranch Gallery (520-455-5020). From Tucson, take I-10 east to AZ Hwy. 83. Sonoita is at the junction of Hwys. 83 and 82. Elgin is just a few miles down the road off Hwy. 83. Phone the Sonoita-Elgin Chamber of Commerce at 520-455-5498.

The mission church at San Xavier is the northernmost outpost of a string of missions founded by Father Eusebio Francisco Kino in the 1600s and 1700s. Several Arizona companies offer mission and desert tours year-round-An Arizona Adventure (480-990-9320), La Ruta de Sonora (800-806- 0766), South of the Border Tours (760-4000), and others. Depending on the season, you can customize a tour to take in ranches, ghost towns and mining camps, Pinacate volcanoes, or Mexican beach sites. Every spring and fall, the Southwest Mission Research Center sponsors a few public tours of the Kino missions in Sonora, Mexico. The 3-day tours include orientation and guides as well as arrangements for transportation, food, and lodging. The tours cost about $450. You'll need to plan ahead, though-the tours book up far in advance. Phone 628-1269.

Blue skies, a breeze blowing off the water, lush greenery, the warm sun coaxing you to sleep- Southern Arizona lakes can be paradise. At Patagonia Lake State Park (520-287-6965), you can rent a canoe, sail, camp, fish, or hike through the world's largest and oldest Fremont cottonwoods, or look for more than 250 species of birds in the Arizona Nature Conservancy's Patagonia- Sonoita Creek Preserve (520-394-2400). Located 62 miles south of Tucson; take I-10 east to AZ Hwy. 83, then go south to AZ Hwy. 82 and look for signs. Or try Parker Canyon Lake, south of Sonoita. Water and outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy some great fishing, boating, hiking, camping, and birdwatching. Take I-10 east to AZ Hwy. 83, then turn south. Go 50 miles through Sonoita to the lake. Phone the Sierra Vista Ranger District (520-378- 0311) or visit www.fs.fed.us/ r3/coronado.

Built in 1896 and refurbished in 1968, the cathedral's high interior, tall narrow windows, and sweeping dome of wooden slats are reminiscent of European church architecture. The exterior is a wonderful sight at dawn, dusk, or night. Every Sun. at 8 a.m. the clergy conduct mass accompanied by live mariachi music. Visitors of all faiths are welcome. Located at 192 S. Stone Ave., 623-6351.

Southern Arizona is an astronomer's delight and home to one of the most prestigious observatories in the world. Kitt Peak National Observatory, 56 miles southwest of Tucson, has yielded numerous major astronomical discoveries and has the world's largest on-site collection of optical telescopes. The observatory is open to the public, as are a gift shop and picnic areas. Make a reservation for the night-sky observation program, consisting of binoculars, access to the visitor telescope dome, and box dinner. Open 9 a.m.-4 p.m. daily. Phone 318-8726 or visit www.noao.edu. For another starlight adventure, visit Flandrau: The University of Arizona Science Center, 1601 E. University Blvd. at Cherry Ave. The observatory offers public viewing on clear nights 7-10 p.m. Wed.-Sat. at no charge. Phone 621-STAR or visit www.gotuasciencecenter.org.

Called Tucson's "most eclectic shopping district," the avenue has numerous boutiques, galleries, restaurants, cafes, jewelry stores, furniture stores, and more. Adding to its charm, the historic shopping and dining district hosts free entertainment at various stops along the avenue the 1st and 3rd Sats. of the month. In spring and winter don't miss the Fourth Avenue Street Fair, with more than 400 artisans plus food and live entertainment. Phone 624-5004 or check out www.fourthavenue.org.

This little village's claim to fame is revealed by its name. Just below the summit of 9,157-ft. Mt. Lemmon, Summerhaven offers cool mountain air, mountain streams, views, and the sound of gently rustling leaves. Picnic, browse for antiques, hike, bike, shop, ride the ski lift, eat homemade fudge, or savor delicious pie and coffee at a cafe. Phone 749-8700 ext. 0 for more information.

Let your artistic side flourish. Stop by The Drawing Studio (620-0947) for a class in drawing, painting, or printmaking. Try your hand at glassblowing at classes offered by the Sonoran Glass Art Academy (884-7814), or make your own tile at Santa Theresa Tile Works (623- 1856). For a free program geared toward kids ages 6-12, go to Tucson Museum of Art and Historic Block's (624-2333) Picture This! Art for Families on the first Sun. of each month. Tubac Center of the Arts (398-2371) offers hands-on classes for people of all skill levels, or schedule a private art lesson with Butterfly Gallery & Gift Shop (325-0585).

When Sunday rolls around, pamper yourself with the luxury of brunch at one of Tucson's world-class resorts or fine restaurants. Ice carvings, fresh-squeezed orange juice, smoked salmon, omelettes with anything you want, Belgian waffles, pastries, soft music, and several dozen other comforts are the norm rather than the exception at these culinary destinations. Check our "Desert Dining Guide" for an excellent selection.

Visitors to Tucson spend more time and money on golf than on any other form of recreation. And no wonder-Tucson and Southern Arizona have a wealth of fine courses. Summer is the best time to take advantage of reduced rates. Check the Tucson Golf Guide (phone 800-638-8350) or the "Golf Guide" in this magazine for course listings. Or visit www.azgolfguides.com for a comprehensive listing of courses throughout Arizona.

Southern Arizona is a hiker's paradise, but many people are daunted by the idea of navigating a trail with a heavy pack. The solution? Peoplefriendly pack goats. A Tucsonbased operation provides the food, beverages, goats, and experienced guides. Popular hikes include forays into the Santa Rita, Dragoon, Huachuca, Santa Catalina, and Chiricahua Mountains. Phone Purple Mountain Pack Goats (403-4056), or check out www.azpackgoat.com.

The recent recipient of a $15-million renovation, the Tohono O'odham Nation Cultural Center & Museum, located 10 miles south of Sells, boasts an impressive collection of artifacts, including some dating back 5,000 years. The museum also displays historical pieces from O'odham war veterans and the work of tribe artists. Enjoy the newly built amphitheater and covered patios. Open Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Admission is free. Phone 520-383-0201 for directions and special events.

About 70 miles southeast of Tucson is the "town too tough to die," where Doc Holliday and Wyatt Earp fought the Clantons at the famous OK Corral. Visit Boothill Graveyard, the Crystal Palace Saloon, numerous shops and galleries, and more. Spend the night in one of Tombstone's B&Bs, motels, or RV parks. To get to Tombstone, take I-10 to Benson and head south on AZ Hwy. 80. Phone the Tombstone Office of Tourism/Bird Cage Theatre at 520-457-3421, or the Tombstone Chamber of Commerce at 520-457-9317 or 888-457-3929, or visit www.tombstonechamberofcom merce.com.

This collection of shops and eateries is a little slice of the 19th-century West, with boardwalks, an oldfashioned town square lit by the glow of authentic gas streetlamps, shaded park benches, and a gazebo in the middle of it all. Enjoy all this as well as the Dragoon Street Wild, Wild West Stunt Shows. You'll also find the vintage Allen Herschell Fiesta del Presidio Carousel-the oldest operational carousel in the city. You'll be able to ride the Trail Dust Town Railroad (a replica of the 1863 C. P. Huntington narrow-gauge train), visit the Museum of the Horse Soldier, pan for gold at Gabby's Gulch, and grab a cowboy dinner at Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse. At 6541 E. Tanque Verde Rd., near the Grant Rd. intersection. Phone 296-5442 or see www.traildusttown.com.

Situated 45 miles south of Tucson off I-19, Tubac was once the site of a Spanish presidio. Today, it's the town "where art and history meet," offering prints, pottery, jewelry, batiks, paintings, restaurants, lodging, golf, and more. Drive south to Tumacacori or hike the 4.5-mile Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail to Tumacacori National Historical Park (398-2341) to see a Franciscan mission built in the early 1800s and a garden like the one grown by the padres 200 years ago. Phone the Tubac Chamber of Commerce at 398-2704 or visit www.tubacaz.com.

Situated at La Canada Dr. and River Rd., the 15,000-square-foot Chinese Cultural Center serves the social and cultural needs of the 5,000 Chinese residents living in Pima County. Designed by Richard Fe Tom of The Architecture Company, the center includes classrooms, a library, recreational areas, and an area for Asian gardening. The contemporary structure honors Chinese tradition with symbolic design elements, such as circular moon gates and the use of the color red. The center's main hallway displays quarterly rotating exhibits, including watercolors, calligraphy, artifacts, and historical exhibitions on Tucson's Chinese Americans. For more information, call the Tucson Chinese Association at 292-6900 or visit www.tucsonchinese.org.

More than 22,000 acres of lush Sonoran Desert and mountains, offering astounding sunsets, numerous hiking and equestrian trails, mountain biking, and picnic areas, are just 14 miles west of town in Tucson Mountain Park. The park is also a first-rate camping and RV destination, with spaces available on a first-come, firstserved basis. The park is home to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Old Tucson Studios, and the popular Gates Pass overlook. Phone 877-6000.

Hungry? Why not try something different and head to one of the independently owned restaurants that make up the Tucson Originals? The name says it all. These unique local eateries specialize in regionally inspired dishes that not only make your mouth water but put your mind at ease, because Tucson Originals give back to the community that inspires them. Tucson Originals help define the flavor of Tucson, with such restaurants as Vila Thai Cuisine (972 E. University Blvd., 393-3489), Terra Cotta (3500 E. Sunrise Dr., 577-8100), Intermezzo (5350 E. Broadway Blvd., Ste. 128, 748-8100), and Dakota Cafe & Catering Co. (6541 E. Tanque Verde Rd., 298- 7188). Visit www.tucson originals.com for a complete list of Tucson Originals restaurants.

Tucson may not have a major-league franchise, but we do have the Tucson Sidewinders, the AAA affiliate of the Arizona Diamondbacks. They provide good baseball from players on their way up to-or taking a rest from-the majors. The Sidewinders offer hours of entertainment and special deals-not to mention hot dogs and beer-at Tucson Electric Park. Phone 434-1021 or visit www.tucsonsidewinders.com.

Set your radio dial to 91.3, Tucson's nonprofit community radio station, KXCI-FM, where you can hear an inspired programming mix that includes bluegrass, gospel, salsa, country, folk, punk, public affairs, and lots more. There's no way you won't hear something you like. Special programs include Global Rhythm Radio, Ruby's Roadhouse, and, of course, Kidd Squidd's Mystery Jukebox (an incredible mix of "cool tunes" by artists such as Billie Holiday, the Velvet Underground, Tom Waits, and Johnny Cash). For more information visit www.kxci.org.

In late summer, monsoon rains turn Tucson washes into rivers, and craggy mountain watersheds create spectacular falls. Seven Falls, in Bear Canyon, can be reached by tram from the Sabino Canyon visitors center followed by a 5.2-mile round-trip hike. Call 749-2861 or visit www.sabinocanyon.com. To reach Tanque Verde Falls, take Tanque Verde Rd. until it turns into Redington Rd. and then a graded gravel road as it curves up into the lower northwest corner of the Rincon Mountains. Walk down the trail to the base of the falls. Remember that rocks can be extremely slippery, waters have strong currents, and you can get the best view looking up from the base of the falls-not peering over the top. Contact the Coronado National Forest, 388-8300. An 80-foot waterfall and koi pond attract visitors to the Window Walk Nature Trail at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort. Follow the 1/2-mile paved path to see some of Tucson's native flora and fauna as well as a butterfly garden designed by Tucson Botanical Gardens.

One of the most visited attractions in Arizona (after the Grand Canyon), Old Tucson Studios is a movie location with daily behind-thescenes guided tours for the whole family. First established in 1939, the Old West town has been built from the more than 300 movies and television shows filmed there-including Kurt Russell's Tombstone, John Wayne's Rio Lobo, and the High Chaparral series. Admission fee. For hours, see www.oldtucson.com, or phone 883- 0100. You can also step back in time with a guided tour of Gammons Gulch, a ghost-town movie set and museum with the look and feel of the Old West. This authentic 1890s town is located 12 miles north of Benson and offers tours year-round (by reservation during the summer months). Open Wed.-Sun. Visit www.gammonsgulch.com, or phone 520-212-2831 for reservations.

Nearby Willcox, birthplace of the late Western film and singing legend Rex Allen, now honors him with the Rex Allen Museum (150 N. Railroad Ave., 520-384-4583), which traces the life of the "Arizona Cowboy" through movie posters, costumes designed by Nudie (of Elvis-outfit fame), and photographs of Allen during his Hollywood heyday. Exhibits at the Chiricahua Regional Museum and Research Center (127 E. Maley St., 520-384-3971) focus on the Apache Indians and area agriculture and ranching. Take I-10 east for 90 miles to exit 336.

Some of the nation's premier spa getaways are right here in the Old Pueblo, including multiple winners of Conde Nast Traveler's Best Spa award Canyon Ranch Health Resort (749-9000) and Miraval Life in Balance (825-4000). Both Westward Look Resort's Sonoran Spa (917-2467) and the spa at Loews Ventana Canyon Resort (529-7830) provide programs to meet individual guests' needs. Nature-inspired spa services are available to guests at Hashani in the JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa (791-6117). Omni Tucson National Resort (877-2367) offers the Desert Stone massage, which uses warmed, smooth lava stones. Touch of Tranquility Spa (615-9608) day spa features a number of signature services. Radiance MedSpa (628-8500) offers cosmetic treatments in a spalike environment. Gadabout SalonSpas (325-0000) offers many relaxing options, including a spa exclusively for men, while Spa One (741-1111) touts massages at affordable prices.